THIS PAST SUMMER I WAS IN PUGLIA, having an artist residency in Otranto. ( Oh Otranto! The Greeks, Romans, Goths, Lombards, Byzantines, Turks and Venetians all occupied Otranto: the food and atmosphere is amazing.) Plus it is the home region of my very first Homestay Student, Cesca ( a.k.a. Raffaella), who lives in Bari.
I enjoyed this unusual pasta twice–once at Primo restaurant in Otranto and then at IL VICO DEL GUSTO, Lecce. So simple; why hadn’t its lusciousness previously passed before me on a plate and over my palate– afterall, my grandparents were Italian restauranteurs. Primo used the very interesting Fusilli Napoletani shape to absorb the wine sauce; IL VICO DEL GUSTO used a slithery linguine.
This RED WINE SOAKED PASTA is a perfect choice for a vegan who likes to indulge in the local products. Puglia is famous for its spectacular olive oil and hearty, alcohol intense red wine.
- 1 lb linguini or other long thick-ish pasta (: — SEE RECOMMENDATIONS BELOW)
- 2-3 garlic cloves, sliced thinly
- 1/4 – 1/2 cup Olive oil
- 2 cups of a full-bodied red wine, such as Primitivo or Negroamaro
- Salt and pepper
- A handful of pitted black olives
- A few sprigs of parsley, finely chopped (optional)
Put the pasta on the boil, cook in well salted water until al dente.
Meanwhile, sauté the garlic in olive oil in a large skillet until it is golden. Add the red wine. Let the wine reduce until it is quite syrupy. Just before the wine is fully reduced, add the olives.
When the pasta is done, drain it (but not too thoroughly– best to reserve a cup of the “slippery” cooking water just in case you need to add it to the sauce.)
Add pasta to the wine reduction in the skillet. Mix the pasta and wine reduction well, and let the pasta absorb the wine almost entirely. The pasta should remain quite moist, so it ‘slithers’ around. If too sticky add a bit of water.
Serve your linguine al vino rosso immediately, with a sprinkling of parsley on top for color garnish.
Serves 4-6 people
LINGUINE IS A FINE SHAPE TO USE FOR THIS RECIPE….OTHER recommended SPECIALTY PASTA SHAPES:
Long, graceful hand wrapped fusilli that opens slightly, like a Shirley Temple curl, when cooked.
A flat ribbon like pasta, hand twisted so that it is formed into a round, thick strand of pasta. Approximately 8 inches in length. This tightly wrapped pasta loosens slightly as it cooks, opening areas for hearty sauces to lay in the open curves of the twists.
Maccheroni al ferretto
A wide ribbon of pasta extruded from a bronze die ( so that it has a slightly wrinkled surface that catches saucea). The wide ribbon is then manually wrapped around a wire, which is extracted. About 6 cm long.
It’s not often that a well-admired cook and dedicated vegetable-eater, such as myself, discovers a new recipe to incorporate into the home meal repertoire.
This past June I was at an artist residency in Otranto, Italy, which is an ancient town way down on the heel of Puglia. Puglia–Bari to be specific–is the hometown of Raffaella, my very first Homestay student. We keep in touch. In fact Raffaella arranged for a driver to take me from Bari airport to my apartment in Otranto.
On to food!
We celebrated my birthday ( June 4) in Otranto, at Primo Restaurant. I was served “Zucchini a Scapece.” Oh my! It was so good: thin lengthwise strips of zucchini gently grilled and then marinated in a mint-garlic-olive oil sauce. The dish was presented on a thin oblong plate with a sprinkling of crushed taralli.
During the next month I went back 3 times to Primo just to eat Scapece.
Back home in Cambridge I have reproduced the Scapece. I use the marinade for not only zucchini but also carrots and eggplant. Today I am doing a vegetable “mista a Scapece”
FOR THE MARINADE;
- A generous bunch of mint
- Several cloves of garlic
- 1/2 – 1 cup good olive oil
- sea salt ( i use mineral rich Si salt)
- –sometimes add a bit of water or broth from steaming the vegetables
- Pulverize ingredients in a blender or food processor.
Pour the marinade over vegetables and let sit–refrigerate if the weather is hot– for several hours, or longer.
- I steam the zucchini and carrots rather than fry.
- I stove top grill the eggplant.
- Whatever vegetables you use, make a big batch and enjoy it over 3 days.
- Sometimes, when there is a lot of marinade left in the bottom of the bowl, I re-use the Scapece a second time, pouring it over a fresh batch of vegetable.
When I first met the man who would end up being my husband, I told him I could prepare pasta 10,000 different ways. His eyebrows lifted and his heart opened.
I was the woman he wanted to spend his life with.
Now, after 25 plus years of marriage, my pasta continues to tantalize and amaze my husband— as well as the international students who stay with us.
Friday is always past night.
Here is one preparation that no one forgets– it is lush in its depth ( the anchovy) wild ( the mushrooms), fresh (the parsley and pepper) and totally satisfying. You’ll dream about it and wake up wanting more.
- 1 box linguine
- 1 can flat anchovies
- 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 2 ounces dried wild & or porcini mushrooms
- 1T shoyu or tamari
- 3 cloves garlic, sliced very thin
- 6-7 cremini (or white) mushrooms
- 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
- salt and pepper
- Reggiano Parmigiano cheese
- Soften the dried mushrooms in 3/4 cup lukewarm water for 20 minutes, then add about 5 chopped fresh mushrooms, a T of the olive oil, the shoyu, pinch of salt and a dash or pepper and simmer over low heat in small pot for 10 minutes.
- Puree mushroom & liquid in a vegetable mill or food processor with some of the and set aside.
- Heat the rest of the oil in a large sauté ( or paella) pan and lightly brown the thinly sliced garlic.
- As soon as the garlic has browned add the remainder of the mushrooms after having cut each of the mushrooms in half and thinly slicing the caps and stems.
- When mushrooms have released their juices, add the pureed mushroom liquid to the pan. Stir for one minute over high heat
- Remove from heat, add the finely chopped anchovies
- Salt and pepper to taste and keep warm
- Meanwhile, cook the linguine in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water for the time indicated on the package
- Drain the pasta and dress with the sauce prepared as above, adding the chopped parsley and freshly ground black pepper at the last minute and mixing well
- Serve immediately with or without freshly grated Reggiano Parmigiano cheese :)
USEFUL INFORMATION for all cooks. When you do something like this…put a lid from one pan that is cooking on the stove onto another pan–that you need to cover only for a short time: BEWARE. The lid and pan, depending on size and weight, may create a vacuum. Like a pressure cooker lid without the rubber, gauges and release valve.
I couldn’t get the lid off the pan! I waited an hour. NO success.
Here’s what worked for me.
I know how the Japanese girls stay so slim. First of all they don’t eat too much. When Atsumi was living with us she NEVER filled her plate with second helpings. What she put on her plate she ate; not more. She liked this salad and said it tasted very Japanese.
Its main ingredient is daikon. Daikon absorbs fat, clears mucus and aids digestion. Among all the vegetable crops, only radish, daikon and horse radish are capable of cleansing liver and kidneys.
You will notice that when you order tempura in a Japanese restaurant it is always accompanied by a small pile of grated daikon.
HERE’S THE RECIPE
- 2 medium or 1 large daikon, trimmed of greens, peeled
- 2 medium carrots peeled
- One lemon, peeled with a zester to get long thin strips of the yellow skin
- 1 t. sugar
- 1/2 plus 1/4 t. sea salt
- Juice of the lemon
- 1 T rice vinegar
Slice diakon diagonally into long thin, coins. Do the same with the carrots. Then stack a few “coins” ( as many as you can efficiently handle) and slice crosswise into thin sticks, resulting in a stack of veggies the size of matchsticks.
Put daikon and carrot “matchsticks” into a bowl. Sprinkle with 1/2 t. salt. Add the zested lemon peel strips. Massage the matchsticks for about a minute. This step begins the release of the enzymes in the daikon. Let the vegetables sit for a least 5 minutes.
In a small bowl, mix the lemon juice, rice vinegar, sugar, and 1/4 t salt. Stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Pour over vegetables. Let sit for one hour.
The daikon radish is also known as a Chinese radish. It is a long cylindrical white root, shaped much like a carrot. You can find it in Oriental food marts, Whole Foods, and maybe even your local grocery store.
We have a Japanese student coming to live with us for a month. ( Usually the students stay longer. ) Consequently, I am brushing up on my hot weather Japanese foods, first, so she that will be tasting something familiar; secondly, because the Japanese do vegetables with little or no fat and oil, a welcome taste on hot day; and, third, there’s a lot of farm-fresh, local eggplants right now.
I have used this marinade on a plate sliced eggplant and tomato; on whole boiled carrots; sliced beets; and on lightly steamed onions and green peppers. We haven’t used it on zucchini yet, but surely it will work.
A little marinade goes a long way. Light, refreshing and a bit of zing makes it very satisfying. Leftovers are terrific. Serve marinated veggies cool, or room temp, with rice, edamame, and cucumbers for simple summer lunch/dinner.
Store jar of marinade in fridge to be used as needed (during one week). Use as much or as little marinade as pleases you on any particular day.
JAPANESE VEGETABLE MARINADE.
- 2 T peeled and minced ginger
- 1 small onion minced
- 1/2 cup rice vinegar
- 1/4 cup shoyu
- 1/4 cup mirin ( if you can’t find mirin then use sugar)
- 1 Tablespoon sesame oil
- Mince the ginger and onion with a knife. You can also choose to put the onion and ginger in small food processor but do not shred them, chop them.
- Combine all ingredients in a small sauce pan. Bring to a boil.
- Transfer marinade to a jar and let cool.
- Cover and refrigerate.
Before serving pour marinade over vegetable, toss, and let sit for several hours.
ON EGGPLANT AND TOMATO Cut eggplant in half lengthwise. Either sprinkle with coarse salt and put in colander or soak the eggplant in salted water. ( this step pulls out bitterness). Wash off extra salt.Pat eggplant dry. Grill eggplant halves over charcoal or on stove top in a grill pan put over a heat diffuser; use a lid. No need for oil. When cooked, cut eggplant into strips. Remove skin.Cut tomatoes into cubes. Arrange eggplant strips on tray. Sprinkle with tomato. Toss with marinade. (Or put everything in a container, toss with marinade and serve later.) Garnish with simple basil leaf.
ON BOILED CARROTS. Choose good-looking, organic carrots that are the same size. Scrub them. No need to peel. Boil in a flat pot– I use a stainless steel frying pan– for about 5-10 minutes depending on the thickness. Place in a flat serving dish with short sides. Spoon some marinade on the carrots when they are room temp. Garnish with delicate fennel fonds or parsley.
When I make this dish I think of Gabriella, the lovely Mexican girl who lived with us during the summer, who taught me to make guacamole with a secret ingredient ( milk!).
This dish is traditionally made with pork–or chicken. I make a vegan version that sings. The “cool” toppings, placed on the “hot & spicy” soup make this a thrill to eat and fun dish to make for a large gathering.
Some Mexican families prepare this for Christmas Eve. For me, it’s a perfect food for a damp, cool New England spring day, or any time there’s a party. NOT MANY CALORIES in this very satisfying stew ( all veggies), especially if you pile on the garnishes.
- 2 cups dried posole soaked overnight or for 2 nights ( I use blue posole**)
- 6 qt. water
- 3 Tbs. grapeseed or corn oil
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 zucchini, cut in half lengthwise and into thin slices crosswise
- 1 butternut squash, cut in half length-wise and into thin slices crosswise
- 1 can diced tomatos
- 1 red chile, 1 green chile ( mild to spicy)
- 2 bay leaves
- 4 cups vegetable broth
- 1 tsp. saffron
- 1-2 t salt
- 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano leaves
- 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
FOR GARNISHES ( present on the table on a big tray, so guests and family can garnish their posole as they please)
- 1 cup shredded cabbage
- 1 cup shredded cilantro
- 1 cup chopped tomato
- 1 avocado cubed
- 1 lime cut into wedges
- extra chopped fresh oregano and thyme
- extra hot peppers ( if you dare!)
1. Soak dried posole overnight or for two nights in 1 quart water Drain posole, and discard soaking water.
2. Place posole in large pot of water to cover by 3 inches. Bring posole to a boil. Reduce heat, cook uncovered for 11/2 to 2 hours, or until kernels burst and are puffy and tender. Add water during cooking, if needed. Drain posole.
3. Heat oil in 6-quart pot over medium-high heat, and sauté onion until transparent about 7 minutes. Add garlic, zucchini, butternut and canned tomatoes, and sauté 3 minutes more.
- Add posole, red & green chiles, bay leaves, vegetable broth and saffrom. Bring to a boil, and reduce heat to low, cooking 30 minutes. Add oregano, thyme and salt, and continue cooking 30 minutes more, adding more water if needed. Serve hot in large soup bowls.
- Everyone adds their garnish.
Serves about 10
About 120 calories per cup ( garnishes are all low-cal except avocado)
You can freeze extra
DRIED BLUE POZOLE FORM PURCELL MOUNTAIN FARM